What’s the design inspiration behind Chanel’s first glass lipstick?
Article en anglais de Katie Nichol paru le 12/09/2023 dans Formes de Luxe.
31 LE ROUGE is luxury brand Chanel’s first glass lipstick. The faceted square case is designed for refills.
After its molded pulp N°5 fragrance pack, rPET Les Beiges compact and the use of Sulapac materials and by-product Camelia seed shells in the packaging of its N°1 range, Chanel continues to explore the use of alternative packaging materials for its beauty ranges. The latest initiative in this space? Chanel’s very first lipstick in a glass case: 31 Le Rouge. The packaging design is said to be inspired by the staircase with faceted mirrors at the brand’s historic 31 Rue Cambon address in Paris.
Manufactured by a Japanese master glassmaker, the square, faceted thin-walled glass cases are engraved with the brand’s double-C logo and feature a double, golden metal collar. The specially developed all-metal lipstick mechanism is visible through the walls of the transparent pack. 31 Le Rouge also taps into the booming refill trend - the aluminum refills come with a protective cap.
A glass factice of the lipstick (Waltersperger) graces the window of Chanel’s Rue Cambon boutique. It stands at more than 30cm high and 9cm wide, weighing in at around 4kg. The pressed glass base and cap were polished manually, with the Chanel logo engraved on the top of the cap via sandblasting. The components are assembled with a gold aluminum collar and silver and gold aluminum mechanism, then fitted with a red bullet in PP (all manufactured by Packman). The factice is designed to be displayed either closed, or open with the bullet showing.
The lipstick is available in 12 shades, while the formula is enriched with gardenia oil and maracuja oil. Its gardenia-inspired fragrance was developed by house perfumer Olivier Polge. In another first for Chanel, the bullet shape was reworked and is encircled by the brand logo in relief.
Launched in September 2023, 31 Le Rouge retails at €165, while the refill is priced at €75. The maison is also launching a bespoke coffret, retailing at €370, which houses a lipstick, two refills and a leather sheath.
Glass: a premium alternative for beauty packaging
Chanel’s launch of 31 Le Rouge highlights the rising trend in luxury to use glass as an alternative to plastic for beauty products. Earlier this month, Dior tapped porcelain specialist Bernardaud to manufacture its refillable Rouge Premier lipstick. Other brands are looking to glass for mascara, as illustrated by Lancôme’s Hypnose range launched in 2022 and produced by Pochet du Courval.